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Handload Recipie For Socom 16

This is a discussion on Handload Recipie For Socom 16 within the Ammunition forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; I have been loading for .40 for a while now, and would like to load for the .308. I've got a lot to learn. I ...


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Old May 11th, 2011, 12:01 AM   #1
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Handload Recipie For Socom 16

I have been loading for .40 for a while now, and would like to load for the .308. I've got a lot to learn. I recently read that the short barrel doesnt always agree with factory ammo, so I was hoping someone could explain this to me, and if someone had a recipe that made really accurate rounds for this particular rifle.

Thanks

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Old May 11th, 2011, 12:23 AM   #2
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I have used the following load since 1970.
I have used it for NRA Metalic Shiloutte Matches, NRA Hi Power Matches, Police/Military Matches, and for Hunting.

This load has been shot in several, 308/7.62 Bolt rifles, Lever Rifles, Single Shots, M14s, FN-FALs, H&K 91s, Winchester Model 100's, etc...

The powder, 39.5gr of IMR 3031.

The bullets, Sierra 165 HPBT Gameking, Sierra 168gr Matchking, the Nosler 165gr Balistic Tip, Nosler 165gr Partition.

Give this load a try.

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Old May 11th, 2011, 02:55 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by NE450N02 View Post
I have used the following load since 1970.
I have used it for NRA Metalic Shiloutte Matches, NRA Hi Power Matches, Police/Military Matches, and for Hunting.

This load has been shot in several, 308/7.62 Bolt rifles, Lever Rifles, Single Shots, M14s, FN-FALs, H&K 91s, Winchester Model 100's, etc...

The powder, 39.5gr of IMR 3031.

The bullets, Sierra 165 HPBT Gameking, Sierra 168gr Matchking, the Nosler 165gr Balistic Tip, Nosler 165gr Partition.

Give this load a try.

Where the heck were you a year ago when I started working on a load for my SOCOM 16?

After all kinds of different tests I ended up settling on almost the exact same load.

168gr Barnes TTSX bullet
Lapua cases trimmed to 2.007"
Cartridge Overall Length of 2.81"
39.1gr of IMR 3031
Federal 210M primer

This load is giving me sub MOA groups at 100 yards but the rifle has been modified with a JAE stock, Ultimak M8 rail, Nikon Encore 2.5-8x28mm scope with a BDC reticle and a few other odds and ends.

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Old May 11th, 2011, 03:12 AM   #4
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Thanks for the informational load. will try also..

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Old May 11th, 2011, 03:47 AM   #5
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I thought the M1A required special primers CCI (34?)

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Old May 11th, 2011, 04:27 AM   #6
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Another vote for 3031 altho I go as high as 40.2 grains in light cases like Winchester and FGGM.
In LC....the 39.5 mentioned earlier. Nosler CC 168 also fit into the pile of projectiles previously mentioned.
The fast burn rate has worked far better than 4064 or 4895 in my gun, which are obviously blowing out the end of the barrel unburnt because the velocities go haywire before I can get into the typical load ranges known to work fairly well. Especially with the 4064.

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Old May 11th, 2011, 05:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainless1911 View Post
I thought the M1A required special primers CCI (34?)
It doesn't require them, but they are a good idea. The harder primer cup is supposed to eliminate slam-fires in an autoloading rifle. Actually, proper handloading techinque (proper primer seating depth) will better eliminate the possibility of slam-fire, but I use the #34's, too.

The #34 is also a 'magnum' primer equivalent, but you can work your loads up with any primer, with the understanding that you can't just switch mid-load from standard primers to 'magnum' primers, you would have to reduce and work your way up again.

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Old May 11th, 2011, 05:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainless1911 View Post
I have been loading for .40 for a while now, and would like to load for the .308. I've got a lot to learn. I recently read that the short barrel doesnt always agree with factory ammo, so I was hoping someone could explain this to me, and if someone had a recipe that made really accurate rounds for this particular rifle.

Thanks
...and I don't think the short barrel 'likes' or 'dislikes' any factory or surplus ammo, specifically. Every rifle is different no matter what barrel length. RAMMAC has proven the short tube can be as accurate (at moderate ranges) as anything else, so it's really up to you, your rifle, your loads and the overall setup (there are things you can do to make the Socom have more accuracy potential.)

Also, are you looking just for accuracy, or do you have a specific purpose in mind? For me, I develop my 147grn FMJ M80 equivalent loads for ranges out to about 150M, my 168grn BTHP loads for ranges out to 300M. Those are the criteria I have established for my weapon/load combination.

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Old May 11th, 2011, 09:08 AM   #9
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.(there are things you can do to make the Socom have more accuracy potential.)
.
This is the part that I know nothing about, and am trying to learn. For instance, I know about creosafe, but If I were to get some and take a chamber casting, I really wouldn't know what to do with it.

I've only been loading for .40 for a season, and still have leading issues, Theres a lot I need to know before Im willing to try a handload in this rifle. As far as the .40 goes, the gunsmith thinks the barrel is causing me problems in my particular situation.

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Old May 11th, 2011, 10:37 AM   #10
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Another vote for 3031 altho I go as high as 40.2 grains in light cases like Winchester and FGGM.
In LC....the 39.5 mentioned earlier. Nosler CC 168 also fit into the pile of projectiles previously mentioned.
The fast burn rate has worked far better than 4064 or 4895 in my gun, which are obviously blowing out the end of the barrel unburnt because the velocities go haywire before I can get into the typical load ranges known to work fairly well. Especially with the 4064.
I found that using the same cases I adjust my powder charge weight to 40.5gr when I use the 165gr TSX bullets.

I also came to the same conclusion, IMR 4064 and 4895 work great for the 22" barrels but the shorter 16.25" barrel needs the faster burning IMR 3031 to work well. IMR 8208 XBR is just a hair too fast, the pressures go through the ceiling just as you get close to the 2500 fps speeds. In fact, in the 16.25" barrel, you will find that IMR 3031 burns more completely than any other powder; right at 100% using these powder charge weights. That reduces your muzzle flash and leaves less carbon in the barrel when it comes time to clean. Also, the cases don't get as dirty because they expand and seal the chamber very well.

While NE450N02s loads are right at the common 50,000 PSI chamber pressure level my loads using the 168gr TTSX bullets with over 39.1gr of IMR 3031 are fairly strong loads. The difference is due to the shape of the Barnes TTSX bullet, it causes more of the bullet to be pushed in to the case and that increases the pressure. My QuickLOAD software predicts chamber pressures of around 55,000 PSI or so. the advantage is that I get another 100 fps out of the bullets (around 2500 fps on the average) and I can use those TTSX bullets on elk out to about 300 yards and have them expand well.

If you use my load be careful, another three tenths of a grain and you can push the chamber pressures up to the 60,000 PSI level. Due to the higher pressures I recommend testing the load in the summer by dropping down a couple of tenths of a grain and working back up. If your summer temperatures get very high then the pressures may climb to a dangerous level. I haven't seen a problem at the current estimated pressure, my cases seem to show no worse wear or reduction in number of times that I can reload them (five reloads being my normal limit). IMR 3031 is a little more temperature sensitive than other powders and that complicates the pressure problem so be careful. Using NE450N02s case/bullet/powder charge weight combination should keep the pressures well within the normal range so you shouldn't have to worry about the hassle of winter vs. summer charge weights.


Last edited by RAMMAC; May 11th, 2011 at 10:50 AM.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 10:48 AM   #11
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This is the part that I know nothing about, and am trying to learn. For instance, I know about creosafe, but If I were to get some and take a chamber casting, I really wouldn't know what to do with it.
Cerrosafe, if done correctly, will provide you with a perfect negative of your chamber dimensions and it will provide you with a way to evaluate the finish of the chamber. That means that you can verify the head space and other critical dimensions and you can look for reamer marks and other imperfections that might cause problems with feeding and extraction.

Several areas are important and can be checked easily.
  • Head space - You can check head space with a Hornady Comparator tool (after trimming the casting to be of the proper length).
  • Diameter of case area - A caliper can used to check this dimension as well as other standard case dimensions.
  • The throat area - Verify the length and condition (is it smooth or rough).
  • The beginning of the lands - Are they slightly angled or just a sharp rise, are they smooth or pitted.
  • The area just after the lands - If extremely hot loads have been used then the area just in front of where the lands start will show excessive wear, the lands will be shallower.

I need to add a clarification. The remark about trimming the casting to the right length is sort of misleading. In order to use the Hornady Comparator you have to have the casting be approximately the same length as a normal case. That means that the casting will probably need to be trimmed down a bit here or there. The most important place to be concerned with is the base of the casting (the area that represents the base of the case). That will need to be trimmed in a way that reflects the true position of the base of the case. You can come pretty close by using a stripped down bolt with some kind of releasing agent (boot polish, PAM spray, etc.) applied to the face of the bolt. Close the bolt as quickly as possible after pouring the Cerrosafe in to the chamber and don't use so much Cerrosafe that you have to compress it to get the bolt shut.

Thanks from stainless1911

Last edited by RAMMAC; May 11th, 2011 at 12:02 PM.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 02:25 PM   #12
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I thought the M1A required special primers CCI (34?)
Since you are starting the CCI #34 would be good for your confidence, knowing you have less sensitive primers. Seating depth is more important. Get a primer pocket uniformer to get the primer .006"-.008" below the base.

RAMMAC and I just finished posting results testing different components and powders. here's the link. http://www.m14forum.com/ammunition/9...gr-bullet.html

I also ran tests with IMR 8208XBR powder. This powder works fine for bullets 155gr. or less. I use it for my M-80 clone reloads.

I still have IMR 8208XBR, IMR 4895, H4895, Ramshot Tac to burn up. I can get all to work well out of my Socom 16. But I would recommend IMR 3031 after seeing RAMMAC's results. I think both He and NE450N02 are on the right track with these short rifles. Once I get done with all this other powders I will be buying IMR 3031

Glenn

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Old May 12th, 2011, 10:42 PM   #13
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I have used my 3031 loads in longer barreled bolt rifles as well.
It is as accurate, sometimes more so, than Federal 168gr Match.

And Federal Match ammo is very very good.

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Old May 12th, 2011, 10:45 PM   #14
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Also for 150gr bullets I load 42gr of IMR 3031.

In the few guns I have shot this load in, it shot good.

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Old May 12th, 2011, 10:45 PM   #15
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Sounds like the IMR 3031 is going to be my powder. I was looking at the 168 gr. Sierra Match King BTHP for rounds, and was planning on using either Remmington or Winchester brass with CCI #34 primers.

I will have to still learn what to do with the info I get from the cerrosafe once I make a chamber casting. I want to make sure Im setting up the bullets properly for this gun. Both for the safety and longevity of the rifle, and for the most accurate rounds possible. A tall order for a new-b I guess.

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