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New to hand loading ammo? Here's a shopping list for newbies.

This is a discussion on New to hand loading ammo? Here's a shopping list for newbies. within the Ammunition forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; I don't think anyone has mentioned a flash hole de-burring tool yet: Lyman flash hole uniforming tool This one is great. That conical part slides ...


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Old June 17th, 2013, 07:39 AM   #31
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I don't think anyone has mentioned a flash hole de-burring tool yet:

Lyman flash hole uniforming tool

This one is great. That conical part slides up & down the shaft so you can adjust it for any case and it provides a stop for the cutter. In any batch of 100 cases, I typically find 2-10 which really need to have the flash hole cleaned up. Only do this with brass the first time through.

That Lyman flash hole uniformer is a great addition to the RCBS TrimMaster. Now that's the way to do case prep IMHO! It's that green thing on the right, and it chamfers, deburrs, cleans the primer pocket. Plus it can be used to ream Berdan primer pockets and to clean up the flash hole.



Pardon me for that Rube Goldberg case trimmer setup. It's ugly but it works.

Oh, that's a Forster bench priming tool. More leverage than a handheld but much better feel than a press-mounted primer. I generally use it only for .308.

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Old July 3rd, 2013, 04:23 PM   #32
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You mention 3 die sets. I just bought the RCBS 2 die sets for 223 and 308. Did i mess up? Can i fix it? Didnt really see any 3 die sets but i tend toward rcbs dies. BTW just checked. The sets are the AR series with full length resizer and taper crimp.


Last edited by lindlerle; July 3rd, 2013 at 05:09 PM.
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Old July 3rd, 2013, 04:41 PM   #33
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Hey NYC, I know that took some time. And will help anyone starting out...wish I had that info last November. Can't tell you how long it took me to do that research.
I'll give you a thanks from everyone.

That's what I love about this site and its members...everyone is so helpful and not arrogant as many other sites!,,

Thanks from NYCSTRIPES
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Old July 9th, 2013, 05:19 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindlerle View Post
You mention 3 die sets. I just bought the RCBS 2 die sets for 223 and 308. Did i mess up? Can i fix it? Didnt really see any 3 die sets but i tend toward rcbs dies. BTW just checked. The sets are the AR series with full length resizer and taper crimp.
The Dies I recommend are a 3 Die set with a bullet seating die, Full Length resizing die and a neck sizing die. I don't crimp any of my ammo, never needed to.

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Old July 9th, 2013, 05:20 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTinMan View Post
I don't think anyone has mentioned a flash hole de-burring tool yet:

Lyman flash hole uniforming tool

This one is great. That conical part slides up & down the shaft so you can adjust it for any case and it provides a stop for the cutter. In any batch of 100 cases, I typically find 2-10 which really need to have the flash hole cleaned up. Only do this with brass the first time through.
Oversight on my part. Yes, a flash hole uniformer is an important tool for the reloading kit.
thanks for spotting that.

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Old July 9th, 2013, 05:23 PM   #36
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Nycstripes,
What is your opinion of this kit for an aspiring new re-loader? Would your 1st post still be better? http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...7&src=exrbSrch
Its fine. I am sure you'll find that some of the hand tools could be better but they'll definitely work. Its all about getting started on the right foot and making ammo the right way.

Always ask questions from people that know. Once you're set up properly, ask to see if someone knowledgeable nearby can have a look to see that your gear is set up properly. It helps.

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Old July 9th, 2013, 08:23 PM   #37
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Thanks for taking the time to gather up and post all of this info. This thread will be extremely helpful when I can start reloading.

Thanks from NYCSTRIPES
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Old July 9th, 2013, 08:35 PM   #38
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Awesome post! Nice work!

Tony.

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Old July 14th, 2013, 05:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCSTRIPES View Post
The Dies I recommend are a 3 Die set with a bullet seating die, Full Length resizing die and a neck sizing die. I don't crimp any of my ammo, never needed to.
Thanks. This set combines the seater and crimp in one die.

I have another wuestion: Dillon sells a set ip to trim and resize at the same time. Anybody know if it is any good? Anybody ever use it? Attractive to me because it combines a bunch of steps.

Also great post. Lots of info!

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Old July 21st, 2013, 03:05 PM   #40
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Tinman mentioned a wilson case gage, i'd like to know more about these, how they work, and how many of you use them. i've always figured the fl die would set up the case to proper dimensions including the shoulder.

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Old July 21st, 2013, 03:48 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by bustedknuckles View Post
Tinman mentioned a wilson case gage, i'd like to know more about these, how they work, and how many of you use them. i've always figured the fl die would set up the case to proper dimensions including the shoulder.
I use the Wilson case gage to set up the die and to ensure that the case is resized properly. Most dies (and presses) will be set properly when the die contacts the shell holder plus 1/8 to 1/4 extra turn. The extra turn, generally known as cam-over, accounts for any slop in the press.

Having said that, too little lubrication with hard brass cases (like LC brass) doesn't always get the case headspace set short enough and may require an extra sizing pass to get the job done. There is some debate about the cause; some say it's due to the expander ball neck friction actually pulling the shoulder out when extracting the case from the die. Personally, I think it's due to poor or too little lubricant.

I first experienced the problem when sizing some LC/LR cases when using Imperial Sizing Wax. The press took an awful lot of extra pressure to size the cases and there was a lot of sticking/chattering while sizing. I happened to have just received a free sample of Forster's lube and tried that. I was amazed at how smooth and easy the resizing went with Forster's lube. A single easy pass through the die sized all cases with no pressure, sticking or chattering.

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Old July 22nd, 2013, 08:05 AM   #42
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One thing that I don't see on the list is a primer pocket Uniformer. http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...prod34720.aspx

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Old July 24th, 2013, 01:25 PM   #43
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Howdy

How's things? Say I am new to the M1A, and new to reloading. I have a full reload shop set up, minus the powder, copper, & primers. Been doing alot of reading before I reload my first round, but I still have a question I thought I would introduce myself to the forum with.

From what I've read the M1A (mine is a Springfield Armory 1980's vintage, military issue), prefers rounds that are not really hot. That is, less than about 170 grain bullets (or there about), and powder amounts that don't create too much pressure. So my first question is "Is / Are there ideal bullet grain weights, and ideal powders, and powder weights for this particular rifle? My only interest is maintaining the rifle in Mint condition, and accuracy - I don't care about velocity, or power.

I am using Richard Lee's Modern Reloading, 2nd edition, but in his data charts he doesn't indicate what's best for the gas operated service rifles.

Amazing piece of equipment by the way - Thanks

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Old July 24th, 2013, 01:58 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by TheShooter View Post
One thing that I don't see on the list is a primer pocket Uniformer. http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...prod34720.aspx
When I pu this list together, I decided that this is a tool for advanced reloading and probably wouldn't be much interest until someone actually decided to get more serious about reloading.

Thanks from TheShooter
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Old July 24th, 2013, 02:06 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Moonshyne View Post
How's things? Say I am new to the M1A, and new to reloading. I have a full reload shop set up, minus the powder, copper, & primers. Been doing alot of reading before I reload my first round, but I still have a question I thought I would introduce myself to the forum with.

From what I've read the M1A (mine is a Springfield Armory 1980's vintage, military issue), prefers rounds that are not really hot. That is, less than about 170 grain bullets (or there about), and powder amounts that don't create too much pressure. So my first question is "Is / Are there ideal bullet grain weights, and ideal powders, and powder weights for this particular rifle? My only interest is maintaining the rifle in Mint condition, and accuracy - I don't care about velocity, or power.

I am using Richard Lee's Modern Reloading, 2nd edition, but in his data charts he doesn't indicate what's best for the gas operated service rifles.

Amazing piece of equipment by the way - Thanks
Welcome to the sport. I'd suggest picking up another reloading manual like the Sierra 5th Edition. Its also good to have another source of data and the Sierra also gives recommended accuracy loads.
For your needs, you can do well with shooting 150gr ball and 168gr bullets. I suggest keeping an eye on Wideners for bulk Privi bullets when they're available. Cheaper than top shelf Sierra or other brands but more than acceptable for your needs for both accuracy and cost.

With the M1a platform, you'll find lots of information from the fellow shooters here given that its an M1a site. I'd suggest IMR4895 as the top powder but given the market, you may have to settle for other powders because of the component shortages.

You can also use AA2520 as well. My M1a has only seen a steady diet of 168gr Match bullets and either AA2520 or IMR4895 powder. Couldn't be happier.

What you'll need to sway away from are the slower powders, you can find yourself having pressure issues and bending the op rod or causing other damage to the rifle.

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