M14 Forum

82nd ABN

Its a simple one this time guys. Do you use the primer pocket cleaning brush on the primer pocket before you use the primer pocket uniforming tool? I am pretty sure all my BH brass has had the primer pockets crimped so I will need to make a pass with the uniformer. I am wondering to what extent the uniformer tool removes the carbon. Do you uniform the primer pockets each time the brass is fired?

Also regarding lubricating the cases. Everyone I ever spoke to tells me I should use imperial sizing die wax. That much I understand.
What about lubing the case necks. I plan on replacing the sizing buttons on my dies with the carbide sizing buttons offered by redding. I understand in theory you don't need to lube the case necks. If the carbide resizing buttons are a waste of money let me know and I will pass on them. WIth regard to lubing the necks I am considering using Imperial dry neck lube and the Imperial application media. Any thoughts before I make an order????

nf1e@snet.net

Just me. For the gas gun brass I use Lyman spray case lube. It does a nice job as far as I am concerned. I stand case with mouth up in a loading tray and give the full tray a quick shot from all 4 sides from a high position so as to lube the case necks at the same time. I run each case over the uniformer every time to remove carbon and clean them up. For some of my bolt guns, I do use a primer pocket scraper. For crimped primer pockets, I use a cutter that works on the RCBS case prep machine.

BLACKTAIL 8541

Warren, you only have to uniform the primer pockets once. I tend to like to work with clean brass. And as such I clean all my cases first, this includes the primer pocket. However, the uniformer will do a fair job of cleaning the pocket when you use it in preforming the task.

I like the carbide expander buttons, but still use a dry neck lube on every third case on my match loads. It puts just enough lube on the button to ensure that there is no neck stretching. On my plinking rounds I do not use any neck lube with a carbide button.

The imperial dry neck lube with its application media is one of the best ways to lube the necks.

I only use the imperial sizeing wax on first run once fired brass purchased from vendors as it slows the lubeing process down to a snails pace. I use RCBS or dillon spray lubes. Put a couple of handfulls of brass in a gallon zip lock bag, put 2 to 3 squirts of lube, add some more brass, lube and repeat untill bag is 2/3 full and agitate thourghly and you are all done with lubeing about 300 cases in 2 minutes. Dump them out into a dedicted box and you are ready to go.

geepee3

The pocket priming tool only uniforms the depth. And you only have to do it once. After that you can use the primer cleaning tool.

You will need a military crimp remover to take out the crimp.(More tools to buy!) Both Dillon and RCBS make them. Dillon is a self-contained tool. RCBS is a die set used on your press.

I use the Redding titanium nitride bushings with the optional carbide sizing button, and still use Redding Imperial dry neck lube. It may be redundant, but I feel it smooths out pressing proccess.(less friction on the neck)
You only have to buy the dry lube media container once. Redding sell the dry lube by itself for refreshing the media.

Glenn

TexIndian

Are y'all talking about the fairly new graphite dry lube from Imperial? I just tried it for the first time for working the necks on some new .223 brass. I got that stuff all over all my tools and bench. No matter how many times I tapped the case to get rid of any excess, a clump would fall out later. It's all over my press, trimmer, case prep center, and me. Maybe I just haven't figured out the right technique. Sometimes I could look down inside the case and see the graphite completely bridged across the neck. OTOH, it worked great for reducing friction.

Sometimes after several firings with hotter loads, the primer pocket can get a little deformed and you can get some fresh metal by running the uniformer again. It works great for removing any carbon build-up and is faster than a brush.

Lots of guys like the spray lubes. I tried a couple once and didn't really like them, but that may just be me and poor technique. I don't have any of the titanium-nitride sizing bushings geepee3 mentioned, but I'm thinking about getting some. It would be nice to completely eliminate lube from the neck sizing process.

The pocket uniformer only cuts on the bottom of the pocket, so it won't do anything for the side wall where the crimp is located. You might even have trouble getting the uniformer in there until the crimp is removed. I used the RBCS crimp tool for many years but it is a royal pain. The Dillon tool works much better but it costs a lot more ($100). I have a cutter that goes in my Wilson trimmer that works great, but it's slow as Christmas. I'm about to try that little taper cutter that goes in the RBCS case prep machine. I like the idea of cutting away the crimp rather than using brute force with one of the swagers. No telling what else you're moving around when you go to mashing. I know several guys that use the pointy end of their chamfering tool to remove the crimp but I can't imagine doing that to hundreds of cases.

My only experience with Black Hills brass is with the Match version (clearly marked on case head). It is definitely crimped. I don't know if the regular BH brass is crimped or not.

nf1e@snet.net

I would recommend using the uniformer more than once. As TexIndian mentioned, after firing you will find that the uniformer will remove more material, indicating that the pocket depth has changed. You will not do any damage by running the tool again and it is about the fastest way to remove carbon. The taper cutter that works with the RCBS case prep center is great. Fast and effective for removing crimp without distorting case as can happen with pocket swager when used agressively in a press.
Thanks Warren for starting some interesting threads. It makes my day to hear what works for others.
Semper Fi
Art

30Caliber

I cut the pockets just once. It's a tedious chore and I haven't seen that it makes a difference accuracy wise; but it provides some assurance against slamfire. You don't need to clean the pockets prior to cutting.

I use imperial wax for the whole shebang. Roll the cases between my fingers, then I drag a finger across the case neck on every other case. I also do this when using a carbide expander ball. It doesn't add any extra time to do this and it makes things more smooth (and consistent).

dozier

[QUOTE=TexIndian;801674]Are y'all talking about the fairly new graphite dry lube from Imperial? I just tried it for the first time for working the necks on some new .223 brass. I got that stuff all over all my tools and bench. No matter how many times I tapped the case to get rid of any excess, a clump would fall out later. It's all over my press, trimmer, case prep center, and me. Maybe I just haven't figured out the right technique. Sometimes I could look down inside the case and see the graphite completely bridged across the neck. OTOH, it worked great for reducing friction.


Texindian, there is sure something wrong with your technique/sequence. If you apply a spray wax and then dunk the neck into the container of the dry lube with the little balls, you are going to get an excessive amount of graphite on the case. Belive me you do not need that much. I'm also assuming that the dry stuff you are using is the stuff with the little balls. Imperial also sells pure graphite/no balls, to recharge the container with the balls when necessary. If you are using the container with no balls, I could see this stuff getting everywhere on your reloading bench. Personally I dunk the neck only first, and then swipe the large portion of the case with the wax. Never had a problem even with GGG. dozier

angelonm

I usually use a qtip to lube the inside of my cases.I roll my cases and use RCBS case lube. Everything gets rinsed with warm water. When the cases are still wet i will clean the primer pockets so none of that dust and dirt becomes airborne. Rinse again and let them dry in my utility room by the oil burner.
I dont uniform all primer pockets, just the cases that I use for hunting and target shooting. Plinking i dont bother.
82nd either way you cant make those primer pocket too clean.

geepee3

TexIndian,
Which container of Redding Dry neck lube did you get. (heads up for anyone else buying this product.)

Here are two pictures of how it is sold.





The one on the left is the dry neck lube by itself. this is used to refresh the product on the right.
The one on the right is what you dip your case necks into. This has the application media, small ceramic b-b's that put a light coat of lube on the necks.
I know the labeling are confusing, that's what the pictures are for.
I hope this helps,
Glenn

JayKosta

I rinse the cases after de-prime, and again after all trim & de-burr is done.
Priming is done after the final rinse.
(I don't have a tumbler, and have done 1000's of reloads that way, only trouble is that the cases are dull and more difficult to find in the grass).

I don't bother to clean the primer pockets, and I've not seen any problem seating new primers. I use the primer mechanism on my RCBS press.
I DO check each new primer with 'finger tip test' to make sure it is not above the case base.

For lube with FL re-size, I use RCBS water soluble 'gel' on a foam pad.
Instead of rolling the cases on the pad, I use the pad to put lube on my fingers and then massage the case body - I find this gives 'just enough' lube.
I also lube the inside of the necks - I use a Q-tip to wipe some lube from the previous case body and then use the Q-tip inside the neck of the next case.
Lubing the inside of the necks makes pulling the expander ball MUCH easier and more uniform feel.

I run each FL sized case thru the trimmer & de-burr.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

sac troop

Besides uniforming the primer pocket I'd also run the tool to uniform and deburr the flash hole. The flash hole is created with a punch and the tool makes them consistent.
For dry lube I use a product called Motor Mica. Maybe it's still what everyone is referring to when they say graphite. Can’t believe how much the stuff costs today. I’ve still got enough for at least my next 10k cases for now.

D308FAM

Before primer pocket uniforming begins remove any primer crimp in the case head primer pocket. This only needs to be done once. I've cut and swaged but in the case of a lot of cases like many use in semi-autos would go to the Dillon primer pocket swager myself.
I uniform/clean/reclean by using a Sinclair carbide primer pocket uniformer either in a hand adaptor or a drill press depending on how many cases I'm working with. I've always just chucked mine right up with no adapator and it's worked fine. Once the first uniforming is done, it works just fine to make sure the bottom of the primer pocket is completely clean so the primer will sit right down on the bottom of that primer pocket like it should. This carbide tool is NOT adjustable so it can't be "at the wrong setting". Besides large and small primer diameters there is also a difference between cutters within sizes in one instance.....see the Sinclair website, get yourself a catalog....and you can see what I'm referring to. Here's a link to the Sinclair Website: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...ket-Uniformers
Both of the above tools are "one for life" type products in my opinion. I doubt an individual could wear either one out in a lifetime.

TheTinMan

I've been using powdered graphite and a brush to lube the inside of case necks, but that new Redding system looks nice.

I could be wrong, but I don't think that you want to use regular case lube inside the neck because of potential bullet setback issues. The graphite is just to help with the expander ball. YMMV

win308

I use a dental pick to clean out the the primer pockets. A few scrapes while rotating the brass cleans them right up.

Part 2...I use Lee case lube...a wax that dries and comes right off after a few minutes in the tumbler.