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November 29th, 2011, 11:27 AM
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#1 | | Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Texas
Posts: 7
| SA Scope mount
As you can tell im a noobie when it comes to M1A, but im no stranger to guns(more of and AR guy (ar15.com)).
With that said, i just recently traded my LAR-8 elite operator for a socom 16 I recently got a gen 3 SA scope mount for free but when installed i had to do a little filing to get the one part to fit in the stripper guide and when mounted it looks like it goes way over the center and is cocked a little to the right, ive been able to adjust the mount by adjusting the rear knob of the mount to compensate it, but it still does not look straight looking down the rifle. Just wonder if someone may have pics of such said mount mounted, maybe a pic as if you were looking down the iron sight or something, ive gone through a lot of pics already with no luck.
Because im broke I would hope to have this mount work for me, as I have read all the best mounts out there are a lot out of my price range for a WHILE. Thanks any help is appreciated.
Last edited by xd9g19; November 29th, 2011 at 11:27 AM.
Reason: added
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December 1st, 2011, 08:07 AM
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#2 | | Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 10
| M1A Mounts
I don't know if ARMS quick release rings will work well for their mounts, regardless if it is weaver style. However, I've tried every way imaginable to 100% stop stove piping on my SA m1A, including two ejector spring replacements. There are a lot of mounts that claim quick release abilities or that are topped with Picatiny rails for quick release rings. After purchasing three SA designs and two Pro Mags my rifle still presented intermittent stove piping. I wasn't about to spend an additional 400 bucks on a SADLAK and get the same results. I research a government document that pointed out details that most vendors fail to incorporate into their mount designs. You must cut out the top of the mount so that the ejected brass doesn't kick up and bounce back down as the op rod tries to violently eject the empty brass. I found that using a drimmil type device to cut approximately a 2" x 3/4" (just past middle of the U channel) section out of my latest Pro Mag mount solved my problems. You must also cut an angel beginning at the forward set screw back at about 45%. I replaced my set screw with a shorter one before grinding, so I didn't grind off the head. Likewise cut a 45 degree taper at the rear that should mirror the front taper. It is my understand that the 4th gen SA mount incorporate this type opening, but they are still aluminum.
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December 1st, 2011, 08:14 AM
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#3 | | Old Salt
Join Date: May 2006 Location: Northern CA
Posts: 1,178
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SAI mounts and rifles are noted for issues when it comes to mounting optics. I understand your flustration.
Hand fitting the mount is the only way to insure a proper fit if the adjustments in the mount run out of room. It may take several trys to get it right . Try useing shim washers availeable atg ACE harware or carfull fileing of the mount in appropriate areas. Use prussian blue or something similar to find out where the mount is binding.
Do you like cutting and pasteing your replies in differant threads? You did not address the question. Quote:
Originally Posted by tank1949  I don't know if ARMS quick release rings will work well for their mounts, regardless if it is weaver style. However, I've tried every way imaginable to 100% stop stove piping on my SA m1A, including two ejector spring replacements. There are a lot of mounts that claim quick release abilities or that are topped with Picatiny rails for quick release rings. After purchasing three SA designs and two Pro Mags my rifle still presented intermittent stove piping. I wasn't about to spend an additional 400 bucks on a SADLAK and get the same results. I research a government document that pointed out details that most vendors fail to incorporate into their mount designs. You must cut out the top of the mount so that the ejected brass doesn't kick up and bounce back down as the op rod tries to violently eject the empty brass. I found that using a drimmil type device to cut approximately a 2" x 3/4" (just past middle of the U channel) section out of my latest Pro Mag mount solved my problems. You must also cut an angel beginning at the forward set screw back at about 45%. I replaced my set screw with a shorter one before grinding, so I didn't grind off the head. Likewise cut a 45 degree taper at the rear that should mirror the front taper. It is my understand that the 4th gen SA mount incorporate this type opening, but they are still aluminum. |
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December 1st, 2011, 08:15 AM
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#4 | | Grunt
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: San Jose, Ca
Posts: 113
| Quote:
Originally Posted by xd9g19 As you can tell im a noobie when it comes to M1A, but im no stranger to guns(more of and AR guy (ar15.com)).
With that said, i just recently traded my LAR-8 elite operator for a socom 16 I recently got a gen 3 SA scope mount for free but when installed i had to do a little filing to get the one part to fit in the stripper guide and when mounted it looks like it goes way over the center and is cocked a little to the right, ive been able to adjust the mount by adjusting the rear knob of the mount to compensate it, but it still does not look straight looking down the rifle. Just wonder if someone may have pics of such said mount mounted, maybe a pic as if you were looking down the iron sight or something, ive gone through a lot of pics already with no luck.
Because im broke I would hope to have this mount work for me, as I have read all the best mounts out there are a lot out of my price range for a WHILE. Thanks any help is appreciated. | on the Gen3 SA mount, you have a lock nut on the shaft for the rear attachemnt screw that you can loosen up, and then turn until the rear grove is aligned with the iron sights. Once that is done, lock back down the shaft and remount. It should work fine after that.  
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December 1st, 2011, 08:22 AM
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#5 | | Old Salt
Join Date: May 2006 Location: Northern CA
Posts: 1,178
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Glad that someone with this mount chimmed in .
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December 2nd, 2011, 07:08 PM
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#6 | | Snappin In
Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: MN
Posts: 15
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I have trouble finding rings that fit on the Springfield mount very well. It seems being a hybrid picatinny/weaver mount, the bases of the rings don't fit decent.
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December 4th, 2011, 09:51 PM
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#7 | | Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Texas
Posts: 7
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Ok, from the looks on your pic im guessing mine is not a SA gen 3 mount like I been told, here is the pic of what I have and the problem Im having. 
Here you can see that it goes over more to the right, is this normal? 
And with the two knobs, i think I have it as straight as possible, but how can one make sure that its good so it wont throw off a scope? 
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January 5th, 2012, 08:02 AM
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#8 | | Snappin In
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 35
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I don't think that is a SA Mount at all- it looks like it is metal/steal. SA makes both in steal and Alum. But this looks used already. SA says that once the mount is set to a rifle it cannot be used on any other, part of the process is setting it with a rubber/wood mallet.
With it being so off set I would guess this is a pro-mag or something even cheaper. I had a gen4 alum SA mount that I got rid of because it kept coming loose. It needs lock tight.
I am waiting on an ARMS #18 mount and will be either using the ARMS #22 QD rings (low) or another set of rings I am not sure.
One thing being a newbie has been teaching me is that I just cannot really super skimp on my girls dresses.
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