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Old December 8th, 2011, 09:25 PM   #16
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I use Shooters Choice only with a stainless steel rod and an aluminum patchholder screw. Using it with a bronce brush, it will stain the patches dark, even on a clean barrel.
Wolf

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Old December 9th, 2011, 12:20 AM   #17
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I use a bronze brush, with Shooters Choice, and I don't have any problems with false positives. After wet brushing, I dry patch until they come out clean, then I wet patch and soak for 15 minutes. If the first patch through the bore after soaking isn't clean, I repeat the process.

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Old December 9th, 2011, 08:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tugdriver View Post
Hi All,

I know it is against range safety regulations,but try to clean your barrel with a bronze brush,while the barrel is still hot !!!!!
All Swiss soldiers are doing this,for years !!!
They also use the Swiss "Automaten fett"on that brush.
Ever seen a bad barrel on a Swiss rifle.....??
Is cleaning firearms on the range is allowed in the US ??

Many greets
Frank
Could not agree more. I run a bronze brush through the bore and chamber a few times at the range to get the "chunks" out. Then I wet the chamber and bore with Hoppes' Number 9 or Shooter's choice and allow that to work chemically on the way home. HOWEVER, IF I am not going to clean as soon as I get home, then I ONLY use Hoppe's Number 9 as leaving Shooter's Choice or advanced copper solvents WILL harm the bore if left in too long. Then a thorough cleaning and oiling at home that does not take near as much time as it would had I not done those things at the range.

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Old December 9th, 2011, 09:30 AM   #19
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I know it's sacrilege, but I've always just used patch's right after shooting. I only use a brush every 2,000 rounds or so. A great gunsmith friend who has been in the business for 40+ years said that "Too many people end up damaging their barrels by over cleaning."

I don't intend to start a debate, but this seems to work for me.

Oh and I use nylon brushes only.

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Old December 9th, 2011, 11:59 AM   #20
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Guitarguy, the Brinell hardness of metalls is tested by scratching different metals to each other. Steel is harder than bronce, so you can scratch bronce with steel but not vice versa. And a chrome lined barrel has an even harder surface.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 12:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bigbang View Post
Guitarguy, the Brinell hardness of metalls is tested by scratching different metals to each other. Steel is harder than bronce, so you can scratch bronce with steel but not vice versa. And a chrome lined barrel has an even harder surface.
Wolf
I'm pretty sure he was referring to people who use either really strong cleaners (IE Sweets 7.62) or multi linked steel rods for cleaning. Yes you are correct, and hence why I've wanted to put a chrome lined barrel in my M1A for a while now.

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Old December 9th, 2011, 05:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarguy774 View Post
I know it's sacrilege, but I've always just used patch's right after shooting. I only use a brush every 2,000 rounds or so. A great gunsmith friend who has been in the business for 40+ years said that "Too many people end up damaging their barrels by over cleaning."

I don't intend to start a debate, but this seems to work for me.

Oh and I use nylon brushes only.
I have to agree with most of what you said. I have probably inflicted more damage to my rifle barrels with MY CLEANING ROD, than with all of the rounds I have fired over the past 40+ years.

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Old December 9th, 2011, 09:01 PM   #23
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As noted, I don't think the brush can wear your barrel, but the debris lodged within the bristles might be able to.

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Old December 10th, 2011, 05:42 AM   #24
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Whether you clean every 50 rounds or every 300 rounds, getting to it while it's hot is a BIG plus. That and large cotton patches, Hoppe's, and Kroil. Bronze brushes are fine. Keep a few in the 6 mm - .277 range for when you want to really soak the bore, they slide in easier with the patch loaded with solvent. If you get real copper residue (not copper wash), lap the barrel with JB paste. You shouldn't need to do that often with a 14-clone's modern barrel. NOS GI Garand barrels seem to improve and run cleaner if you lap with JB after shooting them in with ball ammo. Lead residue is a bigger issue with pistols and smallbore rifles. RB17 dissolves lead better than anything else I've used. Chase with Kroil.

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Old December 10th, 2011, 07:00 AM   #25
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Eliminate the guess work:


Borescope.

Then figure out what works for each particular rifle.

Just don't be shocked at what you'll see. Especially in older rifles that still shoot well. (But that's a subject completely separate from cleaning methods.)

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Old January 6th, 2012, 02:46 PM   #26
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Several years ago I got into benchrest shooting and competition, and shortly after that
I discovered that it was not true rifle marksmanship. Then I was introduced to Hi-Power,
and have been reborn into military marksmanship.
But as an aside, I must say I learned some valuable info from those boltgunners on the
proper way to clean any rifle. I strongly urge anyone using Sweets 7.62 to please make
sure that barrel is as dry as the desert after applying patches. It does contain ammonia
and will destroy the insides of CM, CML, or SS if left in the bore wet.
When I replace a barrel, or break in a new rifle, I use Sweets, but only until the copper fouling subsists, which is usually after 10 - 12 shots. After that, I have never had copper-fouling problems. And recently I began using Wipeout foam and GM Top Engine cleaner. No bronze brushes. 30 or so patches...job is done ! This is now SOP.

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Old January 7th, 2012, 06:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHARLIED308 View Post
I have to agree with most of what you said. I have probably inflicted more damage to my rifle barrels with MY CLEANING ROD, than with all of the rounds I have fired over the past 40+ years.
I agree with this wholeheartedly and I believe I have been guilty of the practice of excessive bore scrubbing in the military particularly and a few times in civilian life until common sense prevailed.Ya know the military,used to be weapon had to be beyond spotless.And sometimes it wasnt even about clean rifles but use up time,x amount of time allocated for wpns cleaning in basic /AIT and best stay busy until a specified time had elapsed before armory would accept wpns.I know!
Now I let the bore cleaner do the work if possible with minimal use of a brush and preferably a stiff synthetic brush w/ a hi ammoni content bore cleaner like the old US ww2 black bore cleaner.Stank of ammonia so bad the wife made me clean wpns in basement/outside but to remove Cu fouling and corr. salts no better stuffs been made that ive used.Less is more unless your bore resemble a sewer pipe IMO. As soon after shooting as possible hopefully w/warm bbl a soaked patch run up and down the bore.Left to sit and soften carbon and dissolve Cu fouling.Another patch to remove bulk of crap then to the solvent brush if bbls been used alot sincle last thorough cleaning.3-6 runs w/brush then remove Cu and carbon with clean patchs another wet one and dry again.No worrys w/corrosive ammo and no problem w/Cu fouling unless the bores in bad shape causing severe Cu fouling.Im talking about a sporter bbl and similar including CL bbls.Now tgt rifles/bbls may require a different method for best match accuracy?
Again less is more IMO!

I disagree about Mksmanship and bechrest not being linked.Hi-power position shooting w/sling
and time limits IMO has more disciplines to master and by that criteria more difficult to do well at. I see your point and agree it is a more difficult sport to master.But you still have to do the basics very well also be able to read conditions so marksmanship is large part of the game for benchrest to.
Maybe just not as practical a discipline as Hi Power if field marsmanship using whats at hand is the test.IMO and understanding of different games anyway.

I do agree 100% about leaving ammonia in the bore carbon steel/ss for extended periods as being a bad Idea!!


Last edited by grndpndr; January 7th, 2012 at 06:27 PM.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 04:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarguy774 View Post
I'm pretty sure he was referring to people who use either really strong cleaners (IE Sweets 7.62) or multi linked steel rods for cleaning. Yes you are correct, and hence why I've wanted to put a chrome lined barrel in my M1A for a while now.
Chrome lined barrels are not as accurate,but easier to clean, and wear out faster at the breach. I have seen chromed Barrels that were woren out unevenly whether from cleaning or shooting I don't know,where a steel barrel does not have that problem and accuracy lasts longer.

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Old January 8th, 2012, 05:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatriotM1A View Post
Several years ago I got into benchrest shooting and competition, and shortly after that
I discovered that it was not true rifle marksmanship. Then I was introduced to Hi-Power,
and have been reborn into military marksmanship.
But as an aside, I must say I learned some valuable info from those boltgunners on the
proper way to clean any rifle. I strongly urge anyone using Sweets 7.62 to please make
sure that barrel is as dry as the desert after applying patches. It does contain ammonia
and will destroy the insides of CM, CML, or SS if left in the bore wet.
When I replace a barrel, or break in a new rifle, I use Sweets, but only until the copper fouling subsists, which is usually after 10 - 12 shots. After that, I have never had copper-fouling problems. And recently I began using Wipeout foam and GM Top Engine cleaner. No bronze brushes. 30 or so patches...job is done ! This is now SOP.
It is not possible to break in a new barrel in 12 rounds. It takes at least 50 to 70 rounds and cleaning after every 10 rounds.

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Old January 9th, 2012, 04:19 AM   #30
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Bronze brushes (for me) work a LOT better than nylon bore brushes.

Hoppe's #9 and/or Kano Kroil to get the crud out. (This is for any rifle/shotgun/pistol that I'm cleaning!)

NEVER dip a patch or brush into the solvent container.
I have a smaller bottle of solvent that I 'work' from. (Pour from large container to small.)
Then, I use an old "tupperware" measuring cup and pour a small amount of solvent into that, for patches and brush 'wetting'.

After cleaning the bore, I used "Brakleen" to remove solvent/crud from the bore brushes and then air dry them, before putting away.

A few patches saturated with "Brakleen" down the bore will get it 'squeaky clean' and dry. (And remove ALL traces of solvent/oil.)
Just be SURE to protect the barrel with some CLP before putting the firearm back into the safe.


Lastly. . . just a thought on fire safety:
I keep all of my dirty patches and rags after I'm done cleaning.
I put these items into an old metal coffee can, and a few drops of dish or clothes detergent and some water.
Cover and 'slosh' around the patches/rags and detergent.
Then remove and rinse.
These patches and rags then go OUTSIDE to air dry.

I've seen what "Spontaneous Combustion" can do. I lost a good friend to a house fire, many years ago. (His whole family died in their sleep.)
The fire department said that spontaneous combustion was the cause.

Sorry. I don't like fire.

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