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Sweets 7.62 ?....

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Old September 6th, 2011, 09:56 PM   #1
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Sweets 7.62 ?....

First time user of the stuff and need some input here, seems to work really fast and really well, but I'm not sure as to how much I need to use, nor how diligently I may or may not want to use it.
It apprears to be very content high in ammonia, and I've got a chromoly barrel that I dont wish to degrade just yet. I've dried it out and lightly oiled the bore with some CLP, but it just doesn't set well in my mind that I'm using a potentially corrosive/oxidizing solvent here.

I'm sold on the lead/copper removal part though, for sure.

I also like to stick with what I know, and I know that I liked Hoppes first.

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Old September 6th, 2011, 10:46 PM   #2
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Try Bore Tech's CU+2, it's more aggressive than Sweet's but without any ammonia; that's why I switched to CU+2, no ammonia smell or worries about etching the bore. You can leave CU+2 in the bore indefinitely without worry about your bore. It does dry out after a few hours and it gets a bit sticky but it wont hurt the metal.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 01:58 AM   #3
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Hoppe's was designed to prevent rust back in the days of corrosive primers, before it was known that Potassium Chlorate is the demon. Hoppe's does a fair job of removing powder fouling, but only indicates copper fouling. It won't hurt your bore, but many better bore cleaners have been invented or discovered since 1929. It does smell good, though. Amyl acetate is sometimes known as 'banana oil' because of the smell. I used Sweet's for a while but quit for the reason you stated, fear of damaging the steel in the barrel. In 1934 Julian Hatcher championed metallic mercury to remove lead deposits, but we know now that mercury harms steel. What will we discover in the next 50 or so years?

Thanks from Gman56
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Old September 7th, 2011, 06:38 AM   #4
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I was told that the high ammonia content of Sweey's 7.62 is the best stuff for corrosive primer residue. made especially for the corrosive Com-Bloc 7.62x25 Tok , 7.62x39 AK and 7.62x54R M-M ammo.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 08:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M14E2 View Post
I was told that the high ammonia content of Sweey's 7.62 is the best stuff for corrosive primer residue. made especially for the corrosive Com-Bloc 7.62x25 Tok , 7.62x39 AK and 7.62x54R M-M ammo.
I was told by an old timer, years ago, that hot soapy water was the thing to use to remove the salts that come from corrosive primers...I can't say since I'm not an expert in that area but I did find a very good article about corrosive primers at the CMP web site;

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=6902

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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMMAC View Post
I was told by an old timer, years ago, that hot soapy water was the thing to use to remove the salts that come from corrosive primers...I can't say since I'm not an expert in that area but I did find a very good article about corrosive primers at the CMP web site;

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=6902
I know hot soapy water works quite well in my flintlocks and cap and ball revolver. Blackpowder is quite corrosive, if left in the barrel and breech. So I don't see a problem with using it to remove smokeless powder residue.

I typically use Simple Green for cleaning my guns. It does a pretty good job! If you have any stubborn copper fouling, try some Butch's Bore Shine, and a brush. I have found Hoppe's to be a bit too strong, and must be used cautiously, especially on rifles that have been bedded.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:32 AM   #7
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Blackpowder fouling is corrosive (hygroscopic) but water soluble. You can clean with plain water.
Of course the addition of some sort of detergent helps!

As a lifelong MG shooter I have had to deal with LOTS of corrosive ammo. Best thing for it is old WWII GI bore cleaner.

Another fact rarely mentioned is that cleaning procedures were different when corrosive ammo was used. The GI manuals instructed you to clean your weapon the day you fired it, and then for three days thereafter. So the modern approach of simply cleaning the weapon and putting it away are usually inadequate.

You can still find plenty of the stuff on Ebay, at gunshows, etc. I bought a case, many years ago. It came in a carton dated 1943. I have been using it ever since, and have given some away to friends.

Sweets is good stuff but I only use it against copper fouling. It's fine, as long as you don't allow it to remain in the bore.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:48 AM   #8
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That link to the CMP article specifically states that you must clean the rifle over several days, including the first day after firing. They also mention that the old USGI weapons cleaning solvent is the best stuff to use for cleaning.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:51 AM   #9
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I would not suggest it or other cleaners with a high ammonia content in chrome barrels. There is a potential for the cleaner to seep into cracks in the chrome that tend to develop from heat. Once under the chrome, rust starts on the bare steel which cause the chrome to lift and peel. I suspect this is what happend to my barrel. Hoppes #9 does not seem to be a problem, tho I no longer let the stuff sit in the barrel.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 11:11 AM   #10
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i use butchs bore shine for my GP bore cleaner, its not nasty smelling and works much better than hoppes. as far as sweets, that is reserved for real nasty fouling barrels. sweets is excellent at getting out copper, but fairly poor at powder fouling. as far as corrosive salts, ammonia does not do anything for it, water dissolves and flushes out salts. if you decide to use sweets, dont let it sit in the barrel for more than 15min, then dry and oil afterwards and you'll never have a problem with it.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 11:14 AM   #11
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Benchrest Shooters usta use Sweets 7.62 quite a lot, but those guns also tend to have Stainless Barrels. I use the stuff on just about everything.

Agreed, the GI Corrosive bore cleaner in the little metal cans is great stuff. I just don't have any of it left.

Black Powder shooters in my area use Murphy's Oil Soap and Water. It works pretty well to take out the crud and doesn't seem to rust things like plain water or soapy water might. It is cheap and works well IMO.

- Ivan.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 11:45 AM   #12
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I use Sweet's 7.62 to remove jacket fouling about every fourth or fifth cleaning. I do not leave Sweet's in the bore for more than 15 minutes as it will craze the bore. The rest of the time I use Hoppe's No. 9 and I use Hoppe's right after Sweet's to make sure the Sweet's is all out. It's good stuff, but requires some dilligence.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 07:57 PM   #13
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got all I needed know about the product in like less than a day from folks here who know. thanks guys, and much appreciated. dave.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 08:09 PM   #14
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Had good results with "Butch's Bore Shine" and Hoppe's "Benchrest"(This IS NOT the same as Hoppe's #9) Just use either until the patches no longer have Blue or Green residue.

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Old September 7th, 2011, 08:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davecampperry View Post
In 1934 Julian Hatcher championed metallic mercury to remove lead deposits, but we know now that mercury harms steel. What will we discover in the next 50 or so years?
davecampperry,

How does the mercury harm the barrel/steel?

Thanks

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